A-line dress is an ideal choice for any body type. The shape of the pattern corresponds to the name of the style. This is a trapezoid with a wide base at the bottom. This solution visually narrows broad shoulders, corrects the silhouette, giving it a feminine outline. There are several cut options for this style. But they are all equally practical, comfortable and easy to wear. Another advantage of the trapeze dress is its extreme ease of manufacture. This style is the model of choice for seamstresses with minimal experience. In this article for beginner dressmakers, we will look step by step at constructing an A-line dress pattern.
Pattern modeling
For beginners, let's look at how to build a trapezoid dress pattern step by step.
We will use the pattern of a semi-fitting dress as a basic pattern. The allowances for a loose fit provided for in it should be equal to 4 cm along the waist and chest (half girth), 2 cm along the hips (half girth).
Extend one side of the chest dart to the highest point of the chest. We extend one side of the shoulder dart on the back pattern until it intersects with the line of the shoulder blades (= the most convex part of the chest). We extend the center line of the waist dart to the bottom line of the dress. We cut the front and back patterns along it.
We close the shoulder dart on the back and the chest dart on the front. We get flaring at the bottom of the front and back parts. Since the closed darts are of different sizes, we will get different flares. On the front panel it will be about 25 cm, and on the back panel it will be 16 cm. We will add the missing difference of 9 cm by moving the side seam of the back. Let's draw new lines for the side seams.
Let's check the correctness of the construction. The slope of the side seam lines of both parts to the vertical should be equal. The lengths of the front and back side seams should be equal. The angle between the side seam line and the bottom line on both parts should be straight. Finally, draw a pattern line for the bottom of the dress.
Making a trapezoid dress pattern: modeling with a detailed master class
Let's look at how to make a pattern for a flared dress from a ready-made pattern for a product with a straight silhouette without darts.
If you do not have such a pattern, you can draw one using a dress or T-shirt of the appropriate size.
We draw a life-size pattern. From the waist line we set aside the desired length. In our example it is 50 cm.
From the armhole line we draw several straight lines to the hem line.
We cut the pattern along them, not reaching 1-2 mm to the edge.
We move the parts of the pattern apart, forming gaps.
Place the cut pattern on a new sheet of tracing paper. In this case, the fold line (= direction of the grain thread) must be strictly vertical. We fix the parts of the pattern.
We outline the new outline of the part, drawing the line of the lower cut with a smooth curve.
We perform similar steps to make the back pattern.
The pattern is ready, you can start cutting.
Next, we will look at several interesting models of a-line dresses.
Sewing progress
When all the details of the dress are prepared, you need to start sewing it. A dress with a flounce at the bottom is easy to sew with your own hands. To do this you need to do the following:
- You need to stitch the chest darts using a sewing machine. Now you need to place them up and iron them carefully.
Ironing the facing
- The sections of the shelves must be processed with an overlocker.
- Now you need to take hold of the seams on the shoulders. To do this, the sections are processed with an overlocker. In the same way, you need to work with the lower edges of the sleeves.
- Now you need to attach the sleeves. To do this, they are sewn into the armhole. To completely prepare the bottom of the sleeves, their edges are wrapped twice and sewn on a machine. Here it is not necessary to use a machine for seams. In this case, you can sew using a blind seam made by hand.
- Next, make a sleeve and side seam. To do this, it is enough to make one general pass.
- Next you need to stitch the neck facing. This is done on one side first. This should result in an open ring. Now you need to process the outer cut of the facing. This must be done with an overlocker. After completing this action, the facing must be sewn into a ring.
Overlock processing
- The facing remains to be attached to the neck rollout.
The facing is attached to the neck
- On the part of the facing that fits the shoulder seams, you need to trim the allowances a little. This is required to reduce the thickness of the fabric. In other areas, notches will need to be made on the facing allowances.
- Now you need to unscrew the facing. The seam allowance is folded over it and the facing is carried out. The stitching should not be located further from the seam than 2-3 millimeters. After this, the facing is turned to the wrong side and carefully ironed. This can be done with a little piping.
- Now you need to stitch it using a hidden seam.
This completes the sewing of the main part of the dress. How to sew ruffles from fabric will be discussed below. Now all that remains is to sew on the flounce.
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Ready-made patterns for a-line knitted dress with long sleeves
The knitted dress pattern is made for several sizes.
You can choose the right option by checking the measurements below:
- 46 (chest-waist-hips): 102-86-108 cm;
- 48 (chest-waist-hips): 106-90-112 cm;
- 50 (chest-waist-hips): 110-94-116 cm;
- 52 (chest-waist-hips): 114-98-120 cm;
- 54 (chest-waist-hips): 118-102-124 cm;
- 56 (chest-waist-hips): 122-106-128 cm.
- 58 (chest-waist-hips): 126-110-132 cm;
- 60 (chest-waist-hips): 130-114-136 cm;
- 62 (chest-waist-hips): 134-118-140 cm.
Sewing a trapeze dress without a pattern
You can sew a trapezoid dress with romantic flounces in the side seams without a pattern. This model will look great on girls sizes 42 - 44.
To sew, you need to prepare two meters of black crepe chiffon. Next, cut out two squares 0.9 x 0.9 m, fold them with their front sides facing each other and mark them according to the diagram below.
Then the dress is sewn.
The cuts are processed with an overlocker.
Mark the central line of the parts in the direction of the shared thread.
Sew the shoulder seams, stitching at a distance of 5 cm from the rollout and edge.
Mark the lines of the side seams and sew them.
The neck sections are treated with a drawstring.
Recommendations for choosing fabric
To create such dresses, thin fabrics that will flow beautifully are best suited. Silk, chiffon, satin, gauze, organza, lace or guipure are often used.
For short or medium length dresses, chintz, cotton or cambric may be suitable. It is worth paying attention to the use of modern materials. For example, neoprene works well for a dress with a ruffle. It is pleasant to the touch and allows air to pass through well.
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Important! Since such dresses attract attention, jackets or jackets made in a classic style will look good with them.
A dress with a flounce emphasizes the romance of a woman
Ready-made patterns for a-line dress with short sleeves
This dress is an example of how original and non-standard clothing models are created using fabrics of different colors.
You can choose the appropriate option by taking measurements and checking the measurements below:
- 36 (OG – OT – OB): 82-66-88 cm;
- 38 (OG - OT - OB): 86-70-92 cm;
- 40 (OG – OT – OB): 90-74-96 cm;
- 42 (OG – OT – OB): 94-78-100 cm;
- 44 (OG – OT – OB): 98-82-104 cm;
- 46 (OG – OT – OB): 102-86-108 cm;
- 48 (OG - OT - OB): 106-90-112 cm;
- 50 (OG – OT – OB): 110-94-116 cm;
- 52 (OG – OT – OB): 114-98-120 cm.
